God in Heavens 2.0 - LCBO Dieu Du Ciel Fall Release

Sorry for the long delay in posting, folks.   Seems the influx of disease-ridden undergrads has finally taken its toll on the ol' immune system, and I've been fighting a cold since the day before Thanksgiving.  Not only have I not really felt up to posting during my convalescence, I also haven't sampled any new beer since my taste buds have been so bloody compromised.   This wouldn't have been such a bad thing, were it not for the fact that the day before my throat started getting sore I finally managed to pick up a few bottles of Péché Mortel, a splendifferic imperial stout that currently sits at #1 on Canada's best brews list on Beer Advocate.  For those who've been reading the blog for a while, you will know I've been yearning to sample this brew for months now. The fact that over a thousand American beer aficionados have had opportunity to rave about this beer, while I, only a single province away have been left in the dark, has frustrated me to no end.   Thanks to the LCBO's wise decision to bring in this award-winning gem, I can rest a bit easier.

Now that my white blood cells have (finally) done a decent enough job to remove the offending cold bug, I think it's time to celebrate by cracking one open!  In honor of this momentous occasion, I decided to also review some of the more intriguing members of the LCBO Dieu du Ciel! fall release.  Now I try not to review too much from the same brewery, but dammit, Dieu du Ciel! gets me every time.   This past spring, I received a sampler pack from a Montreal-bound friend of mine and enjoyed every one of them.  But after finishing these off I was saddened to think that it would be quite some time (i.e., whenever myself or a friend passes through Quebec) before I would have the luxury of some more Dieu du Ciel brews.   Thankfully, my fears were allayed with the announcement that several of their beers would be available for sale at the LCBO this fall.  Good ones too.  Great ones, actually.

In addition to Rosee d'hibuscus and Corne du Diable, both of which I've already given mad props to on the blog, the LCBO is also offering four new DDC brews to a thirsty Ontario: Route des Épices; Dernière Volonté; and two of Canada's highest-rated brews: Aphrodisiaque (a.k.a. Aphrodisiac, a.k.a. Aphrodite) and the aforementioned Péché Mortel.   Naturally, I am super stoked.   

Let us quaff...

Beer: Route des Épices ("Spice Route")
Type: Rye beer
ABV: 5%

It might be hard to see in the picture, but yes - the man is wearing a ship for a hat.  I repeat: a ship for a hat.   Wonderful artwork once again - a surrealist tribute to both the Oriental spice trade and humanity's advances in beard-curling technology. 

This beer describes itself as being a rye beer brewed with peppercorns, which has gotta be a first for me.  Not sure what this is going to taste like, but I assume it will be a great deal like peppercorn steak.  Another win for the cause of experimentation, I guess.  I poured this one into a chalice because, not knowing what kind of glassware best accentuates a peppercorn beer, I stuck with my default.

A rust-copper brew, chestnut when out of the light. Not much head, just some patchy streaks of lace and a few islands of foam. Not the most attractive beer, I must admit: kind of looks like a limp Belgian dubbel.  Still, we press on.

The nose is caramel malts, with only the finest hint of nutmeg, cinnamon and peppercorn to be had. Remarkably deceptive; I had fully expected a spicy, peppery bouquet, but it just wasn't there.

The taste, however, is by far one of the most unique beer experiences I've ever had.  The peppercorn taste is not entirely unlike a ninja: you don't even know it's there at first with the less-potent notes of malt, caramel and fruit providing a distraction, until POW! It hits you with a shuriken to the throat from out of the darkness!  The finish is an unmistakable peppery explosion, which to me is comprised not so much of 'peppercorns', but rather ground table pepper.  The finish is incredibly bitter, spicy, lingering, and provides my esophagus with a thorough wakeup call. There might be other spices in here, but pepper really steals the show. I can't say I'm really enjoying it, but neither can I say I'm not fascinated with it. 

Big credit to DDC for making a brew that challenges my beer perceptions by giving me something totally new and exciting. Is it a beer I'm likely to get again? Probably not; in fact, I doubt I could finish more than one bottle. Still, kudos to the brewmaster for making such a unique product.  (Grade: B-)

Beer: Dernière Volonté ("Last Will")
Type: Belgian Pale Ale
ABV: 6.5%

Another wonderful label.  Similar to Christian imagery of Jesus in his crypt or the pieta.  After roasting my tastebuds on Route des Epices the previous night, a return to Belgian pale ales - a style Quebeckers brew so very well - was certainly welcome.
Poured into a Leffe goblet. A peachy-coloured brew, slightly opaque, with wisps and patches of sediment gracing the lower half of the glass. Frothy, patchy head is thin, but retains well. Crests of lacing appear here and there. Looks great, just right for the style.

Nose is peach, lemon, citrus, yeast, and a fine hop character as well.

A splendid tasting Belgian pale. Notes of peach, pear, spices, yeast and dry white wine. Lovely use of hops to the finish - peppery and leafy tastes linger after each sip. Warming alcohol burn as well. Great stuff

Could have used a bit more carbonation, but other than that, the mouthfeel is about right for the style.

Another winner from DDC, a great BPA that can challenge any Belgian or Unibroue product. Definitely worth a pick up - or two or three.  Anyone who has enjoyed Maudite, Fin du Monde or Chimay will certainly dig this.   Great stuff (Grade: A-)

Beer:  Aphrodisiaque (a.k.a. "Aphrodite" in Anglo territory, "Aphrodisiac" in the States for some reason...)
Type: strong stout
ABV: 6.5%

The cashier at the LCBO joked that this must be a chick beer or something, to which I replied: "It's a strong stout with a hot chick on the bottle - which sex you think the brewer was aiming at?"
Indeed, that is some sexy bottle artwork right there.  For a beer named after the Greek goddess of sexuality, they certainly put the right type of label on the front.  A minxy goddess figure, seductively chewing on a piece of grain, staring right into you....whew, is it getting hot in here or something?   My pants are chafing me a little...

Again, poured into a chalice glass.  The bottle states that this was brewed in August of 2010.  Nearly pitch black, with only the faintest line of chestnut near the brim. Produced about a half inch of mocha head, which left some scattered patches of lace and islands of foam lasting throughout the sample.

The nose on this is terrific: a lovely blend of chocolate, roasted malt, coffee, vanilla, cream, caramel and toasted marshmallow. All this without smelling artificial or syrupy. Delicious.

A very tasty stout, which opens with a big hit of chocolate, caramel and vanilla, but leaves with a bitter coffee finish. Good interplay of sweet and bitter here. A pleasure to drink.

Could have been a touch thicker, but the carbonation was right on the mark. Creamy and satisfying.  Clearly, the name "Aphrodisiaque" was undoubtedly appropriate, because Dieu du Ciel has completely seduced me with this brew.  Outstanding stuff yet again from DDC. Well worth the wait, and very glad to see it grace Ontario shelves.  Flavorful, rich, but neither too strong nor to hearty for seconds (or thirds), provided one has the stamina.  Wow.  I need a break from all these sexual innuendos.  Moving right along.   (Grade: A, A+ for sexiness)

And last, but certainly not least, the brew Matt has been anxiously awaiting since he first got into craft beer, the legendary Péché Mortel!

Beer: Péché Mortel ("Mortal Sin" - but not "mortal fish" or "mortal peach"!)
Type: Imperial stout au cafe (Imperial Coffee Stout)
ABV: 9.5%

Péché Mortel means "mortal sin" in French, and features creepy artwork that seems to have been lifted straight out of the the Book of Genesis.  A seductive treat, Péché Mortel, is dark, rich, hearty, flavorful, but damns you with its high ABV and piercing espresso bitterness.   Truly a fantastic brew.

Poured into my trusty Duvel goblet. Nearly pitch-black, with a half inch of tan, frothy head.  Leaves lovely swirls and island patches on the surface, a thick ring that retains well, and a few patches of lacing.  Looks terrific.

The nose is rich in roasted espresso beans, toasted malts, cream, marshmallow, a touch of alcohol (bourbon and sherry) and mild hoppage as well.

The taste is a tremendous burst of espresso flavor that attacks the tongue with vigor. As the brew warms a touch (and after the tastebuds acclimatize to all the espresso goodness), I'm also picking up some subtle notes of caramel, dark fruit, and just a hint of bourbon. The finish is surprisingly dry, boasting peppery hops and coffee bitterness. Although I can certainly detect the alcohol, it is warming and flavorful. Long, bitter finish.

Chewy, velvety, and with a fine, creamy carbonation, this brew is going down tremendously well.   Great body to it; I'm swirling around the last few sipsworth and you can really see the viscosity holding everything together.  First rate.

Once again, Montreal proves to be among the finest brewing cities to be found.   Certainly well worthy of the hype (and the wait). One of the finest uses of coffee/espresso I've seen in a stout. Seriously, I'm almost getting a coffee buzz here, despite nearly being at 10% alcohol! About two bottles of this would be about all I can handle in an evening, but nevertheless, the drinkability for such a thick, hearty, high ABV stout is still high for me. I will most definitely be back for a few more for cellaring and extensive sampling on my part.

-

A great lineup for the LCBO - though I often bash them for their Toronto-centric release policy and frustrating lack of American and interprovincial shipping, credit where credit is due.  For those who love fine stouts, Belgian pale ales and new, different beer experiences, any one of these brews should fit your bill.  The Corne du Diable is also fantastic and worth a pickup.   If some calamity were to strike Canada's brewhouses, leaving us with only Dieu du Ciel brews to be had, I certainly will be quite happy.  Everything I've had from them has been terrific - or at least unique and exciting - and I still have about 20 more brews of theirs to get through.    A trip to Montreal is certainly in order.

Aventinus Weizenbock

Beer: Aventinus Weizenbock
Brewery: G. Schneider and Sohn (Munich)
Type: Weizenbock
ABV: 8.2%

I review beers not just because I enjoy them, but because I'm always seeking to experience that moment of perfect beer clarity that occurs when you try something truly spectacular, when you know you've been privileged to discover the very best the world has to offer. Only once in a great while does this happen. There are so many beers out there that can be classified as first-rate, superb examples of their craft and true pleasures to drink. But then there are the elite; the beers that captivate your senses so completely that the world appears to pause for a few moments, allowing you to give the brew your undivided attention. Each sip elicits a simple, quiet utterance of both satisfaction and contentment. And when the glass is held aloft to gather those final resisting drops, you feel invigorated and awestruck by what's just happened: you've just had one of the best beers in the world.

This beer is, quite simply, a work of art. It's everything a beer should strive to be: unique, inspiring, complex, smooth, exciting. The absolute pinnacle of its style. I struggled to find flaws with Aveninus, but they were hard to come by; to change any aspect of this beer would be to destroy its very essence.

Aventinus Weizenbock is an opaque light-brown brew, sepia when held to the light, and with patches of orange round the edges of the glass. The pour left about an inch of head, which has diligently survived as a thin but noticeable layer lasting throughout the session. Sheets of lacing after sipping.

The nose is a splendid blend of typical hefe notes of banana, cloves, and coriander, but perfectly infused with dark fruit, chocolate, and caramel, which are flavors normally associated with Belgian tripels and German bocks. Only a slight alcohol burn to the nostrils. Lovely.

The taste is simply phenomenal. Chocolate and banana, hazelnut, wheat, malt, a touch of hops and slight warming alcohol to the finish. Tastes like the holy offspring of a dunkelweizen and a tripel. Banana and nuts linger longer as the brew warms up a touch. Just love it. The still-substantial head gives the brew a creamy texture.Carbonation is high, but surprisingly it works. It kept me from absolutely destroying the brew, which - trust me - I was tempted to do.

I'm sure the fact that the ABV was over 8% contributed to my outpouring of love for Aventinus, but why shouldn't it? Beer is by its very nature alcoholic, and thus the alcohol character of a brew should contribute positively to the overall experience. I loved this brew from the first sip onwards, and I'm not alone in this regard. Beeradvocate.com rates this beer among the world's best, and certainly the finest of the weizenbock style, while the members of Ratebeer.com place Aventinus in the 100th percentile. Truly a magnificent brew, and one I strongly encourage you to try for yourself. (Grade: A+)

Matt's Addiction

Beer: St. Ambroise Stout Imperiale Russe

Brewery: Brasserie McAuslan (Montreal)

Type: Russian Imperial Stout

ABV: 9.1%

After about a week-long hiatus due to being sick and not being able to drink, it's time to not be sick and to be able to drink. Um...yeah.... About the only good thing about taking time away from drinking is that, during your absence, the LCBO might have a few new brews waiting for you, tempting you with their flirty labelling and come-hither bottling. Fortunately, this was the case this weekend.

Beer hunting is like any other consumer addiction; it costs time and money and sometimes makes little practical sense to anyone else except the collector themselves and their like-minded cohorts. Think of someone with a shoe-shopping addiction; they go out of their way to buy the most expensive, rarest shoes, just because they can. It doesn't matter that they already have tons of shoes at home; they want the latest fashion, and they won't balk at dropping several hundred dollars to get the ones they want. (I actually have no idea how much womens' shoes cost (or do I?)). The same thing goes for beer. If there's a new brew out, no matter what the price, I have to have it. Fortunately, beer hunting has two advantages over the shoe-shoppers: 1) even the best, rarest, most unique brew is never going to be more than 20 bucks a bottle, and it's almost never over 10 bucks, and 2) shoes can't get you drunk.

I stand corrected. Confused, but corrected.

Thus, anytime the LCBO puts out a special, limited edition brew, I have to buy it. There isn't even really a question in my mind; if I see it, it's in the shopping cart. But considering how awesome limited edition brews are, how could I not? Take this sexy little number, for instance.

- It comes in its own keepsake tin.

- It's by McAuslan, a brewery whose awesome-ratio is ridiculously high. (Try their Oatmeal Stout; it's phenomenal)

- It has St. Basil's cathedral on the front, and kind of looks like it came from Khrushchev's personal stash.

- And finally, it's bourbon wood-aged. It's infused with more liquour.

If I ever pass up a reserve bottle such as this, I'm either dead or blind and my seeing-eye beer-hunting dog is out taking a whizz on the sidewalk to the chagrin of the bylaw officer.

Today, with my beer itches having gone unscratched for several days now, what better way to get back on the horse than with a special reserve Russian Imperial Stout? The answer is no, there isn't. A better way. To get back on the horse.

For this sampling, I chilled the bottle for the better part of the afternoon (thanks to the glorious weather, my basement is no longer cold enough to provide cellar temperatures). When it was time to indulge, I let the bottle sit out on the counter for a bit to warm up a few degrees. That's not just snobbery; that's good advice. This beer was a bit expensive, so it's important to serve it properly. Certain beers - dark ales especially - should be served a little warmer than lagers, pale ales and pilsners, which are normally served ice-cold. In order to unleash the complexities of the nose and body, a stout such as this needs to be served at a few degrees above refrigerator temperature (10 degrees C). If you drink it too cold, you'll miss out on a great deal; it's like over-chilling a red wine. They'll sometimes tell you the ideal temperature on the bottle, but if you want to be sure, check out sites like beeradvocate.com and Ratebeer.com, which will recommend proper serving methods.

After about seven minutes of warm-uppage, I poured it into a tulip glass. The colour was just about perfect for a RIS: near pitch-black with a touch of brown. Thanks to the curvature of the glassware, I got about an inch of tan head, which produced a terrific lacing pattern and retained itself well throughout the tasting. Off to a fantastic start.

The nose is potent and sweet, but very enjoyable. Dark chocolate, bourbon and brandy, marshmallow, caramel and roasted malt are the dominant flavours here. They weren't kidding about "bourbon wood-aged."

Wow; this is truly great stuff. The oak from the bourbon barrels does wonders for this brew, evening out the sweet caramel and chocolate and letting the hop bitterness provide a late kick. Similar flavours are found here as in the nose. Sweet, but not cloying. The alcohol is covered fairly well, but it is evident in the finish, coming in as a sharp whisky taste.

Mouthfeel is velvety and sticky, with the carbonation providing a good spritz on the back of the tongue. Had the carbonation been any lower, it might have created a sickly syrupy effect, but fortunately this was avoided.

After reviewing this brew online, I discovered that I had awarded it one of my top 5 scores, which for me is a pretty good argument to buy this beer. It's just under 6 bucks, but trust me, it's more than worth it. (And think about it, that's roughly what you'd pay for a draught pint anyways; why not get something unique?). If my review isn't enough to get you out to the LCBO to try this brew, keep this in mind: they only brewed it once. It might never be back again! Aaaaughhh!!! (Grade: A+)

By the way, for those keeping score, here are Matt's top 10 so far (as seen on beeradvocate.com):

1. Maudite (Unibroue)

2. Aventinus Weizen-Eisbock (Schneider und Sohn)

3. Duvel (Duvel Moortgaat)

4. La Fin du Monde (Unibroue)

5. St. Ambroise RIS (McAuslan)

6. Fuller's London Porter (Fuller's)

7. Gouden Carolus Classic (Brouwerij Het Anker)

8. Affligem Blond (Brouwerij de Smedt)

9. Margriet (Brouwerij Het Anker)

10. Young's Double Chocolate Stout (Wells and Young's)

A-Number One, Top of the Heap

Beer: Duvel
Brewery: Brouwerij Duvel (Belgium)

Type: Blonde Strong Ale or Belgian Pale Ale

ABV: 8.5%

When people find out that I'm big on beer in a geeky sort of way, I often get asked which beer is my favorite. If picking a favorite style is difficult (see my previous post for more ranting), choosing a favorite beer of all time is absolutely impossible. Not only have I not tried the vast majority of the world's beer (have faith; I'm working on it), but even from the ones I have sampled, it's still an impossible project. As soon as I mention one brew, I think of four others that might qualify. At the very best, I can rattle off a few of my highest-rated brews and hope to appease them; thus, the ones that consistently make this list of immediate recall can, I suppose, be named as one of the 'favorites.' I can safely say that this brew, Duvel, is among them.

Indeed, this review can be pretty much summed up in three words: Drink. This. Beer.

I'm serious. You can make fun of Belgium all you want, but by the very virtue of producing this beer, it can be safely said that Belgians have contributed more than their fair share to the progress of humanity. (Kind of like South Africa has with Charlize Theron, or the United States and barbecued pulled pork). I've had Duvel a few times before, but only in a little stubby bottle. Nevertheless, it was one of those few beers out there that elicited a genuine "wow" from every sip. (Aventinus Eisbock was the same way for me) With some Christmas money, I managed to score one of the last Duvel glass-and-bottle gift sets at the LCBO, and thus I can safely say that 2010 has been a good year so far. I LOVE beer gift sets.

The glass itself is called a 'tulip', which, like a wine or brandy snifter, encourages the nose. It also has the effect of producing some of the most incredible head action. I mean, just look at the picture (sorry, it's really dark in the house and I had to adjust the light settings). The head seen there lasted throughout the entire bottle, including two half-glass refills, which of course meant for some of the finest lacing I've ever seen. Thick, sticky and foamy = awesome. The beer is a slightly opaque golden, with continuous visual carbonation. Spectacular appearance.

The nose is subtle, but wonderful. Apple, honey, light hops, and a bit of yeast. Not very strong, but it doesn't have to be. Gets a bit more noticeable as it warms up, but only slightly.

The taste, simply put, is spectacular. Crisp, slightly dry, with notes of apple, pepper, honey, grain and a bit of pear. Maybe a bit of walnut in the back. Very difficult to detect any alcohol, which is good considering it's nearly 9%. The finish is bitter and peppery, but not overly dry. Mouthfeel is slightly higher than average carbonation, and a bit creamy considering there's still about a half-inch of significant head, and this is after about 20 minutes (there's about 2 pints worth in this bottle).

As per drinkability, I can see myself drinking this every day if I had the means. Truly, this is what beer should look and taste like. I may someday discover that perfect beer, the one that will guide me through the tough times and will be buried with me to be consumed in the afterlife. For right now, Duvel will do splendidly. World-class. (Grade: A+)

Christmas Beers That Make You Go "Wow."

Beer: Aventinus Weizen-Eisbock

Brewery: G. Schneider and Sohn (Germany)
Type: eisbock

ABV: 12%

Well, it's Christmas Eve-eve, and what better time of year than to sit around and get loaded! And by that, I mean review some more holiday brews. Next on the agenda is the eisbock, a rather unique style that isn't a Christmas beer per se, but traditionally eisbocks were consumed in the Lenten season, and that's good enough for me. This was a rather random pick up for me: I was at the old LCBO, and was a bit disappointed with their Christmas selection, so I decided to pick up a few old favorites for the holiday season. Aventinus' hefeweizen is a pretty great brew, so I snagged this one up, only to discover that this bottle instead contained their eisbock, a beer I've never had the privilege to sample before. I guess their bottles look fairly similar.

A happier Christmas miracle I could not ask for.

So, you're probably wondering, what the hell is an eisbock? Don't you fret now; ol' Matty will set you straight. To begin, a bock is simply a strong lager, darker in colour than their pale lager and pilsner counterparts, and usually with an ABV of at least 6.5%. The style is believed to have originated around the town of Einbeck, Germany, thus giving a possible explanation for the name. (Fun Fact: another possible origin is the fact that 'bock' is similar to the German word for 'goat'. Thus, on many bock labels you will often see images of goats with beer strapped to their backs. Google it!)

As you can see, goats are good people.

These brews are given a little bit of extra malting to allow for heartier flavours, and are stored (lager-ed) for a longer periods of time to smooth and clean things out. Therefore, bocks are almost always darker in colour, and can possess flavours that are more reminiscent of ales, like caramels, dark fruits and spices. Due to their high ABV and thicker bodies, bocks were traditionally consumed in the winter months, both as a means of sustenance and to combat the chill (I'm well aware that alcohol is an ineffective way to "keep warm", but it's a hell of a lot more fun than "bundling up" and "respecting nature.").

There are many variations of the bock style: maibocks are lighter and crisper bocks that are stored over the winter and consumed in the spring (May = Mai auf Deutsch); doppelbocks are the strongest variations of the bock, with notoriously high ABVs. And then there are eisbocks. The eisbock style is one that purportedly came about entirely by accident, a result of laziness and ineptitude: the twin pillars of human innovation. As the story goes, a hapless brewery employee neglected to store some of the kegs properly, exposing them to the frigid elements. When the kegs were eventually tapped, it was discovered that the beer had frozen somewhat. Like the smart lads they were, rather than dump the beer out, they gave it a try, only to discover that this new brew was both stronger and sweeter than it was originally supposed to be. A new style was born! Eisbocks, therefore, are similar to ice wines in their production. Modern brewers will allow their brews to ferment in extra-cold temperatures. The water freezes, but the sugars (and thus the alcohol) remain, albeit in a more concentrated form.

Aventinus is one of the standards of the eisbock style, and damn is it good.

First of all, consider the ABV, a whopping 12%. This makes Aventinus a good three times stronger than your average bottle of beer. This means that lining up several in a row is probably not a good idea (unless it's your intention) and even having one puts you well at risk of being over the alcohol limit, so it's definitely not one for the D.D.ing crowd. Best drink this one safely.

The crazy thing is, 12% isn't anywhere near the high point for eisbocks: 15%, 18% and even 20% are surprisingly common. An excellent way to enjoy a quiet night avoiding wintry weather.

The brew pours a nice, chocolaty brown, very cloudy. Almost like chocolate milk. Leaves about an inch of head, that recedes into a little ring around the glass.

The smell is terrific: dark fruit, spices, nuts, malts, and a bit of alcohol. This is going to be good. The taste is also superb. Similar flavours as detected on the nose, with a bit of banana and cloves to boot (this is, after all, a weizen eisbock, so there is a bit of wheat beer character to it). Very rich and flavourful. The alcohol is certainly present, but it's masked fairly well. Rather than being a stingy, gaggy taste (as some high alcoholic brews can be), Aventinus has just that right bit of strength to give you a warming sensation in your belly. This is what a winter warmer should be like. Nevertheless, this beer is very high in alcohol, so I'll try to finish the review before I get compromised by all the yummyness.

Mouthfeel is thick and chewy, with the carbonation providing just a bit of sting.

Wow.

This was one incredible beer experience. Flavourful, complex, refreshingly unique. This is a beer I will be drinking a lot of this winter. If you're just coming in from the cold, whether it be shoveling or scraping the steps, sit down with this one and all will be well again. On Beer Advocate, this is the first brew I've given an A+, and that's saying quite a bit (I'm not harsh, but I don't give many brews above an A minus; gotta save the perfect 10's for the perfect beer!). Highly recommend this one! Just promise me you won't drive anywhere afterwards, capisce? (Grade: A+)